Matera: Italy’s Ancient City of Stone and Secrets

In the southern region of Basilicata, nestled between rugged hills and dramatic cliffs, Matera is a one-of-a-kind place. This ancient city is famous for being one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited settlements, with a history that goes back over 9,000 years. Matera’s heart lies in its maze of caves, or “sassi,” which were once homes, chapels, and stables for the people who lived here for centuries. Today, visiting Matera feels like stepping into a different time—a surreal mix of rustic charm, captivating history, and fresh creativity that’s turned the city into a cultural gem.

Matera was off the beaten path for years, but it got a boost when it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was named a European Capital of Culture in 2019. The sassi neighborhoods and their narrow, winding alleys feel both ancient and lively, offering a unique blend of history and modern charm that’s hard to find anywhere else. If you want to experience an Italy that’s raw, mysterious, and totally captivating, Matera is a destination you won’t forget.

 

Exploring the Sassi: Matera’s Ancient Cave Districts

Matera’s standout feature is the Sassi di Matera, the iconic cave districts that have an almost mystical vibe. These neighborhoods—Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano—stretch over steep hillsides, carved right from the limestone rock. Originally built as cave homes, these spaces were lived in continuously from prehistoric times until the 1950s. Today, they give a glimpse into life from another era, with winding alleyways, stone-carved homes, and ancient churches tucked into the rock.

Wandering through the sassi feels surreal, like stepping into a natural fortress or an ancient movie set. The city has been a backdrop for several films, including The Passion of the Christ and No Time to Die. But the real magic of the sassi lies in their quiet moments—an abandoned chapel with faint frescoes, a small home turned museum, and the echoes of footsteps along stone paths. Every corner has a story to tell, with history embedded in the very walls.

One of the coolest sights is Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario, a restored cave dwelling that shows how people once lived in these underground homes. It’s a step back in time, giving a firsthand look at daily life in Matera before modern conveniences. Further up the hill, you’ll find San Pietro Caveoso, a church beautifully set into the rock that blends perfectly with its surroundings.

 

Matera’s Spiritual Heart: Rock-Hewn Churches

Matera is also famous for its rock-hewn churches, known as chiese rupestri, scattered throughout the sassi. Dating back to early Christian and medieval times, these churches are carved from the rock and adorned with frescoes that have stood the test of time. Each church has its own unique vibe, with rough stone walls and cozy spaces that create a powerful connection to the past.

Among these churches, the Crypt of the Original Sin is a must-see. Known as the “Sistine Chapel of rupestrian art,” this cave church has frescoes from the 8th or 9th century, depicting biblical scenes in vivid colors that still shine today. Another notable site is Santa Maria de Idris, a small church on a hill, offering stunning views over the sassi and the Gravina gorge below. Exploring these churches reveals Matera’s deep religious history, a hidden world of art and devotion nestled within the rocky cliffs.

 

Matera’s Resurgence: From Abandonment to Cultural Renaissance

Matera’s journey from obscurity to cultural fame is fascinating. After centuries of continuous habitation, the cave districts were declared uninhabitable in the 1950s due to extreme poverty and poor living conditions. Many residents were relocated, and Matera fell silent, its caves abandoned and its history left to fade. But in recent decades, a renaissance has breathed new life into Matera. Artists, architects, and local visionaries have transformed the sassi into boutique hotels, restaurants, and galleries, giving these ancient spaces a new purpose.

Today, Matera is a thriving cultural destination, where echoes of the past meet the creativity of the present. Restoration efforts carefully preserve the city’s authenticity, balancing heritage and modernity. Staying in one of Matera’s cave hotels, like Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita, lets visitors experience the sassi in a uniquely immersive way. These hotels keep the rugged, cave-like feel while adding touches of comfort, making them some of the most memorable places to stay in Italy.

 

Food and Flavors of Matera

Basilicata’s cuisine is as unique as the landscape—earthy, hearty, and full of rustic flavors. Matera is known for pane di Matera, a distinctive bread with a golden crust and airy texture. Made from ancient grains, this bread is a symbol of the region and a must-try when you visit. You’ll find it served in many ways, from bruschetta to pairing with local olive oil and cheeses.

Another regional specialty is cavatelli pasta, often served with fresh veggies, tomatoes, and a generous drizzle of olive oil. Pignata, a traditional lamb stew cooked in a clay pot, showcases the rustic flavors of Matera, while crapiata, a dish made with barley, beans, and lentils, is a local favorite that dates back to ancient times. Matera’s food traditions are humble yet incredibly satisfying, reflecting the region’s spirit and the close connection its people have to the land.

 

How to Get to Matera

Getting to Matera is an adventure since this ancient city doesn’t have its own airport. The nearest airports are Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (Bari Airport), about 65 kilometers away, and Brindisi Airport, around 130 kilometers away. Both have international connections, especially during peak travel seasons, making them convenient entry points. From Bari, you can reach Matera by car in about an hour or by train and bus, which takes around 1.5 hours.

Traveling by train and bus from Bari is an affordable and scenic option. Italy’s railway system connects to Bari from many major cities, and from there, you can easily catch a regional train or bus that will take you directly to Matera. Once you arrive, exploring on foot is ideal, as the sassi districts are best seen up close without the hassle of driving.

 

Why Matera Deserves a Spot on Your Itinerary

Matera is a city that defies expectations. It’s where ancient history meets modern creativity, where every corner holds a story, and where the beauty of the landscape is matched only by the warmth of its people. Matera’s centuries-old streets, evocative rock churches, and unique cave dwellings make it one of Italy’s most unforgettable destinations.

In Matera, you won’t find the typical crowds or fast pace of other Italian cities. Instead, you’ll find quiet moments, breathtaking views, and a deep connection to the land and its history. Whether you’re exploring the ancient sassi, savoring a slice of local bread, or watching the sun set over the rugged cliffs, Matera offers an experience like no other. It’s Italy at its rawest and most real—a place that invites you to slow down, look closer, and discover the beauty hidden in the stone.